Jeff Lubeck

Capturing New Zealand: Beyond The Map Sign

Sunset at Cape Farewell and Wharariki Beach

The road I’m on is steep with many curves. Many hairpin turns appear to contradict engineering logic. Fortunately, the roadbed is well-built and allows unobstructed views of the deep blue Tasman Sea and the vibrant green and gold colors of Golden Valley. For lovers of driving in the mountains, the Takaka Hill Highway Mountain Pass Road on the South Island of New Zealand is thrilling. Takaka Hill acts as the midpoint in the 100-mile, one-way journey between Nelson and Cape Farewell. An amazing array of experiences lies within the 100 miles.

Above Left: Map of trip from Richmond to Cape Farewell

Above right: Map of trip circumnavigating the South Island of New Zealand.

Linda, my wife of 44 years, and I enjoy traveling together to the fullest. This day trip could be remarkable.

The journey begins in lively towns and concludes in a remote, windswept seascape at Land’s End. In the middle is the unforgettable Takaka Hill.

The top of Takaka Hill with the Tasman Sea in the distance.

Takaka Hill

The Takaka Hill summit divides two distinct regions. To the south and east lies the mountainous greenery and rocky terrain of Abel Tasman National Park. Looking west and north lies the fertile Golden Valley and beyond it the desolate Golden Bay/Mohua. The difference between the settings is jarring to the eye.

Driving down into Golden Valley resembles base jumping with a vehicle. Container trucks attempting to navigate the hairpin turns on Takaka Hill Highway is a must-see viewing. It starts at the town of Upper Takaka and ends at the town of Takaka.

Halfway Down Takaka Hill to Golden Valley NZ

Golden Valley

New Zealand’s center of the dairy farming industry is Golden Valley. Takaka is inviting and colorful. If you need stores offering old-school variety items, drive-through wine and liquor, or coffee and fresh baked goods, Takaka has it and more. Takaka is worth the time for a full stop. One benefit will be a break from the drive.

The State Highway portion of driving on the coast begins in earnest in Takaka and ends in the town of Collingwood. However, the road journey continues after Collingwood with new experiences, and the destination remains ahead.

Golden Bay’s coastline is flat and winding. At various points, the roadbed appears to be below the ocean’s surface.

Farewell Spit becomes visible in the distance as we head north and west. It is the longest sand-spit in the world. Farewell Spit is a protected international wetland. The initial two miles are accessible to the public. Guided eco-tours allow for further exploration.

Cape Farewell

Cape Farewell late in the day.

Travel journals often depict Cape Farewell as a desolate place, and it feels that way. It is a rugged coastline. Cape Farewell is the northernmost point of the South Island. Luckily, the late afternoon sun is bouncing off the cliffs.

Linda and I decide it is time to begin the return to our base in the town of Richmond. The journey back will require three hours, which includes driving over Takaka Hill.

However, a few miles into the return to our home base, we opt to explore the accessible stretch of Farewell Spit. The walk on the trail and beach reveals the enormity of Farewell Spit. We gain by changing plans: the spit’s full scope becomes visible to us.

Wharariki Beach and Archway Islands

Wharariki Beach

We review the parking lot’s large map signs upon returning to the car. They provide a visual of our entire day’s journey. Wharariki Beach appears on the map next to Cape Farewell. The wide beach and Archway Islands next to it catches our attention. Few travel journals mention the beach. The signs at Cape Farewell Trailhead label Wharariki Beach as a holiday park. We thought the designation too commercial and decided against visiting. This time, we perform a quick check online. Wharariki Beach is likely the best spot to watch the sunset.

Linda looks tired from a big day of traveling. I suggest we head home and not push it. Linda nods her head. I can tell she knows my eyes are saying something opposite. Linda points out, we have been in this spot before. She says, you know, we need to go back, and missing the Wharariki Beach sunset could be an unforgettable loss. So, we choose to change directions and head back to Wharariki Beach.

Hike to Wharariki Beach

Hike to Wharariki Beach. Is it a desert or a beach or both?

The hike to Wharariki Beach from its trailhead is longer and more varied than we expect. The scenery includes sloping hills and forests. Upon reaching the beach, a vast expanse of sand and wind-sculpted dunes greets us. Getting to the water is like crossing the desert.

The beach patterns of Wharariki, or the surface of Callisto Jupiter’s second largest moon.

Sunset

Experiencing Wharariki Beach at sunset is invigorating. As the sun descends, its position creates a spectrum of colors and distinct shadows on the Cape, the tide line, and the rocky cliffs of the Channel Islands. There is green, red, brown, tan, blue, gray, and black within the same setting.

We wouldn’t have had this added pleasure if we had restricted ourselves to guidebooks.

Another bonus of taking in the sunset at Wharariki Beach: I am able to traverse Takaka Hill in the dark on the return.

Linda (or could it be The French lieutenant’s Woman) Long Walk Sunset at Cape Farewell and Wharariki Beach

Sunset Wharariki Beach and Archway Islands

Sunset at Cape Farewell and Wharariki Beach

* Jeff’s Thoughts and Other Worthless Trivia *

With low population and vehicle traffic New Zealand has opted to have 7,586 of it 13,726 constructed as single lane bridge structures. The road approaches are well built and signed. One one side the approaches designate the vehicle and driver to give way to an approaching vehicle. The other is instructed they have the right of way. The vast majority of these State Highway bridges are of the same construction and style. Based on 3,300 kilometers of driving on the South Island and the attentiveness of the drivers, I like the system very much.

New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, and Scotland have designed their two (and single) lane roads to have turn outs for slow vehicles, and passing places (with visual rule of engagement instructions) that make driving enjoyable and easy to follow.

As with all my Posts, the images I have captured are:

Canyon Ranch Spa

Welcome Linda

What does “Canyon Ranch Spa Tucson, AZ” bring to mind? Do you envision a magical desert retreat in the Sonoran Desert for relaxation and rejuvenation?

I was able to experience this last week as “vacation” from a vacation to New Zealand. The Ranch offers the ultimate satisfaction for a getaway.

Mel Zuckermsn’s 1978 vision of a “Health and Fitness Retreat” created this community, dedicated to nurturing your physical and mental well-being.

Apart from spa offerings like massages and facials, there are outdoor adventures available, including hikes to Bridal Wreath Trail (6 miles) and Milagrosa Loop (7.2 miles). The Saguaro Cactus only grows here. Classes such as yoga, stretching, meditation, and weight room use are available

Four locations provide all meals and adapt them to specific dietary needs.

One connects with fellow spa-goers at meals and activities; going solo also works well.

My first time at the Ranch won’t be my only time at Canyon Ranch Spa.

Circumnavigating The South Island of New Zealand – Hokitika

Hokitika New Zealand at Sunset

I have recently travelled again to the country of New Zealand. This time for an extended period on the South Island.

I circumnavigated the Island, with my wife of 44 years, Linda, by vehicle. The country remains, in my eyes, a place with welcoming people and landscapes of surprising variety. The terrain in New Zealand presents giant mountains filled with enormous glaciers to long, wide beaches, to deep, misty fjords.

Multiple weeks and thousands of kilometers of driving and hiking reaffirmed to me that this place and its people will reward visitors at every turn.

Hokitika

There is a place on the journey for which I knew little. It is on the west coast of the South Island and is called Hokitika.

Most travel books portray Hokitika differently from what I experienced. It is an engaging white-sand beach town. Hokitika is unpretentious, yet sophisticated.

The townspeople are exceedingly friendly. One shopkeeper took the time to point me to each of the stores where I could buy physical maps, a computer mouse, travel – size toiletries, and pretzels. The front desk clerk at our hotel made our room available to us 90 minutes sooner that originally promised. She took the time to track us down and tell us the room was ready.

Given the uncluttered nature of the beach, the sunsets can be spectacular. The glow in the sky at sunset possessed deep reds, oranges, golden yellows, and blues.

Hokitika Real Fire Station Next to Fire Station Restaurant

Hokitika At Dawn

Hokitika Gorge

The Hokitika Gorge from dawn through early morning is what locals will tell you is the prize.

They are correct. Hokitika Gorge is about a 45-minute drive from town. During the drive, the setting changed from beach town to pastureland to agriculture land to river gorges to mountains with glaciers.

The glacial blue of the water in the Hokitika Gorge from the Swing Bridge is an experience like few others. The number of different shades of blue seem impossible to count.

Hokitika Gorge Trail

Hokitika Gorge Approaching Swing Bridge

Hokitika Gorge From Swing Bridge at Sunrise

Hokitika Gorge From Swing Bridge Early AM

Hokitika Gorge Swing Bridge From Trail.

Hokitika Gorge River Edge

Hokitika proved to be an ideal place to stop and take the time to enjoy.

Jeff Lubeck