Jeff Lubeck

Waimea River Walk

The Waimea River in Kauai is a treasure. An often under appreciated one.

Starting high in the Koke’e forest, near the Alaka’i Wilderness, the Waimea River flows down about 5,000 vertical feet in less that 20 miles to where it meets the Pacific Ocean.  The Waimea Canyon is often called the Grand Canyon of the Pacific Ocean.

The last ruling chief of Kauaʻi and Niʻihau, King Kaumualiʻi (1778-1784) resided in Waimea. His palace was located on the east side of the Waimea River at the mouth of the Pacific.

Captain James Cook of the British Navy was the first European to set land on the Hawaiian Islands in January 1778.  The British landed a few hundred yard west of where the Waimea meets the Pacific Ocean.

The Waimea River Valley from one of Jeff’s Secret Spots

The Waimea River Meets The Pacific Ocean

From The Waimea River Sandbar Looking East

From The Waimea River Sandbar Looking West (the white trim of my house is visible on the right).

The Waimea River and The Pacific Ocean – It is a Complicated Relationship

The Waimea River and the Pacific Ocean co-exist in a tug of war type relationship.  On the vast majority of days each party gets along nicely and the people get to utilize both with great joy. During periods of dry weather a large sandbar develops (over 100 yards in length) that almost closes off the river from the Pacific.  As shown in the picture captured today, I can walk across the river with the water only a few inches high

However, there can be times the Pacific treats the Waimea River in a battering fashion.  This situation occurs if there is any combination southern storms, King Tides and or high surf. The opposite can and does occur.  During heavy rains in the mountains, the river can change its composition quickly and drastically.

I wrote a Post about the relationship called Capturing Kauai – The River Meets the Ocean [here].  The Post includes a description of the single greatest change in the flow of the Waimea (on record).  I slept through the event (safely) in my house just a few hundred yards to the west.

Are you are wondering about the sandbar? In any of the events mentioned it can go away completely and the Waimea grows to 200+ feet in width.

Walking and Strolling on the Waimea

My walk on the banks of the Waimea River covers about 2 to 2.5 miles (one way).  The best time for travel starts just before sunrise or late in the day (returning to the house just prior to sunset).  The route is terrific for walking and or running.

On the trip you can experience a variety of sights and sounds.

Monkey-pod trees in flower

‘Auku‘u (Nighthawks) in flight

Hibiscus schizopetalus

Cattle Egret in flight

Vehicles Crossing the River

Horses Sunning on the River

Outrigger’s returning to their base on the river from the ocean

End of Day Light

Girl with a security guard on a swinging bridge

Up the River and Into the Valley

Over the distance of the route, the setting and scenery travelling up the river changes in a material manner.  The town of Waimea is small (population 1,700).  Waimea reflects old-school Hawaii and Kauai. Its small footprint is primarily a residential area. Waimea is occupied by working families and transplants who favor a local’s vibe.  The residents can walk to the supermarket, bank, library, restaurant, coffee shop, school and church. 

As you start up the river bank the homes are a mix of new and old. Almost all are tidy no matter the number of cars, trucks, boats, and other possessions on the property.  A friendly wave is offered by residents and fellow walkers on passing.

At the one mile mark the setting becomes more rural.  Many of the properties are horse oriented.  Wildlife abounds.  The properties are significantly less uniform.  Natural beauty of the river valley begins to dominate the scene.  Given the climate and topography, the setting feels exotic.

At about the two mile mark, a swinging bridge that crosses river and a monument to the Menehune Ditch set the scene. They are a reminder of Kauai’s long time nature of being individualistic and a Island Kingdom separate from the others.  The properties and residences are highly varied. One can be a ramshackle followed by a huge home with estate like grounds.  The common theme (as with most of the rural U.S.) possess reminders from residents. Their property is private and trespassing is discouraged through a variety of wordings.

In many parts of Kauai, people live up in the higher elevations of river valley off the grid.  The Waimea River Valley is no exception.

**** Jeff’s Thoughts and Other Worthless Trivia ****

The feelings I experience travelling up the Waimea River Valley are exactly the same as those heading down the East Fork of Salmon River Valley in Idaho. Both have been part of my life for a good period of time.

The settings are in a region of isolation from a large population center.  The natural landscape is magical and keeps drawing me back.

The deeper the travel into these areas the more I see and experience residents who desire more independence and privacy. I fully understand these kinds of places can be a bit unsettling to those who are less familiar. 

However, I am a person who chooses to live in the same region for many of the same reason’s.  I make sure I honor that request at all times.  In return I have experienced nothing but courtesy and respect.  Funny how that works?

This week I walked the Waimea River Valley.  Near the Swinging Bridge I noticed a man on the river bank heading out into the valley.  I was greeted with a big smile and big dose of Aloha. 

The man’s first name is Eddie. He was heading up the valley to see his mother.  Eddie was born on Kauai, and lives in Waimea about four blocks from our house.  Similar to others, he walks the beachfront and passes by our house most days.  Friendly hello’s and a few words of gossip are exchanged each time.  Over the years the inclusion of gifts have been added.  Eddie often fishes from the beach in front of or near our house.  So that can mean fresh fish for us.  With Suzie our friendly exchanges result in fresh eggs for us.  Suzy lives on the Waimea River about 3/4’s of a mile from town.