Jeff Lubeck

Circumnavigating The South Island of New Zealand – Hokitika

Hokitika New Zealand at Sunset

I have recently travelled again to the country of New Zealand. This time for an extended period on the South Island.

I circumnavigated the Island, with my wife of 44 years, Linda, by vehicle. The country remains, in my eyes, a place with welcoming people and landscapes of surprising variety. The terrain in New Zealand presents giant mountains filled with enormous glaciers to long, wide beaches, to deep, misty fjords.

Multiple weeks and thousands of kilometers of driving and hiking reaffirmed to me that this place and its people will reward visitors at every turn.

Hokitika

There is a place on the journey for which I knew little. It is on the west coast of the South Island and is called Hokitika.

Most travel books portray Hokitika differently from what I experienced. It is an engaging white-sand beach town. Hokitika is unpretentious, yet sophisticated.

The townspeople are exceedingly friendly. One shopkeeper took the time to point me to each of the stores where I could buy physical maps, a computer mouse, travel – size toiletries, and pretzels. The front desk clerk at our hotel made our room available to us 90 minutes sooner that originally promised. She took the time to track us down and tell us the room was ready.

Given the uncluttered nature of the beach, the sunsets can be spectacular. The glow in the sky at sunset possessed deep reds, oranges, golden yellows, and blues.

Hokitika Real Fire Station Next to Fire Station Restaurant

Hokitika At Dawn

Hokitika Gorge

The Hokitika Gorge from dawn through early morning is what locals will tell you is the prize.

They are correct. Hokitika Gorge is about a 45-minute drive from town. During the drive, the setting changed from beach town to pastureland to agriculture land to river gorges to mountains with glaciers.

The glacial blue of the water in the Hokitika Gorge from the Swing Bridge is an experience like few others. The number of different shades of blue seem impossible to count.

Hokitika Gorge Trail

Hokitika Gorge Approaching Swing Bridge

Hokitika Gorge From Swing Bridge at Sunrise

Hokitika Gorge From Swing Bridge Early AM

Hokitika Gorge Swing Bridge From Trail.

Hokitika Gorge River Edge

Hokitika proved to be an ideal place to stop and take the time to enjoy.

Take A Moment to Look Around

By taking a moment to look around and assess, you can shift from disappointment to enjoyment and then to satisfaction.

Such a moment occurred for me yesterday. My goal was to travel off-trail and reach the highest part of Waimea Canyon to get a shot of Waipo’o Falls in its full glory.

I have made this trek and captured an image of this stunning waterfall and setting hundreds of times. A Kona type storm has been pelting the Hawaiian Islands. After more than eight inches of rain fell at my place in the last day, I went to observe the state of the falls.

The Falls

When I got there, a thick fog had settled over the canyon, yet no rain was falling. Despite a two plus hour wait, there would only be one brief break in the weather. I was ready for it. I captured Waipo’o Falls in its entirety, showcasing its magnificent water flow. However, sunlight and a blue sky were nowhere to be found.

Before leaving for home, I appreciated everything the canyon offered. I love this canyon and the location. So, standing in it is rewarding for me.

Goat’s beard lichen

Goat’s beard lichen hanging from the trees is an interesting visual. Sunshine attempting to poke through the fog creates an intriguing light mask.

Goats beard lichen

Splitgill mushroom

The lichen photograph led me to spot another interesting image. On downed tree branches, I discovered a mushroom I’d never encountered. They are called Splitgill mushrooms.

Splitgill mushroom on a fall tree branch

Splitgill mushroom

While I did not get the shot in the original plan, I got to enjoy the surroundings and capture images of things of interest to me.

Consider Kauai to be one huge microclimate if you haven’t experienced it. As a result, the weather is astonishingly unpredictable. It’s safest to assume nothing and prepare for almost all conditions.

A Wish For A Year in Provence or At Least Another Two Weeks

I wish to return to France. I cannot believe I am saying this on record. To be specific, I want to return to La Mandarine in the village of Bonnieux, in the Luberon district of the Provence region of France.

Why am I surprised by being on the record? I previously stated, ‘Provence does not appeal to me, nor does it interest me’. Alright, my previous assessment of Provence was incorrect. Incorrect in a material fashion.

La Mandarine is a five-acre Lavender ensconced farmhouse estate owned by Wood River Valley locals Lyman and Debra Drake. Lyman and Debra are warm and inviting people who do a good thing for their community. They donate the use of La Mandarine to local charities for auction. Estate sounds pretentious, and La Mandarine is the opposite. The Drake place is inviting, warm, and simple. Lyman, who is an art dealer by trade, filled La Mandarine with wonderful artifacts.

In the 21st Century can there still be quaint mountain-top villages in the south of France with area residents working the land a good distance away from freeways, big box stores, and Discount outlets for Disney Character merchandise? Yes, the answer is Bonnieux.

The village of Lacoste is on the other side of the valley! Its history is quite remarkable, too. It is only 3 miles from the Drake home.

Seeing that there are multitudes of travel guide narratives available, I will offer a pictorial essay to support my reasoning.

Ready For Visitors © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – Courtesy of the MESH Gallery – all rights reserved. The porch of the Drake’s home. It faces the village of Bonnieux (see images above). It is drenched in the warm morning sun and offers a cool respite in the afternoon. The view is as good as it gets!

Afternoon at the Farmhouse © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – courtesy of the MESH Gallery – all rights reserved. The afternoon sun on Hydrangea Bush next to the outdoor eating area of the Drake home. To the left (not in the image) is the wonderful swimming pool.

Christ on the Cross in Bonnieux © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – Courtesy of The MESH Gallery – all rights reserved. Statue of Christ on the Cross in Bonnieux. On the facia in Latin: in-manus-tuas-domine-commendo. Translated to english: into your hands I entrust my spirit.
St. Luke 23:46; one of the Seven Last Words of Christ

Flamingos on the Rhone © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – Courtesy The MESH Gallery – all rights reserved. The Mediterranean Sea, Rhone River Delta and wild horses and pink flamingo’s of the Camargue are sixty miles to the south.

**** Jeff’s Thoughts and Other Worthless Trivia ****

This Post was originally published in 2016. I am reposting given a surprise interaction with the Drake’s daughter in 2026.

Sunset in Bonnieux and Vermeer’s View are two of my favorite works of Fine Art Photography. I am fortunate to be the artist. Both sit in my gallery office. At 54″ by 72″ they are imposing. The lighting created by my son Kyle takes the presentation to another level. They are visible to visitors of the gallery, as the office sits behind large glass doors.

Countless visitors, ask about the works and the story behind them. Recently, one such visitor was the daughter of the Drake’s. Her husband bought the artwork for her as a birthday gift.

Jeff Lubeck

Circumnavigating The South Island of New Zealand – Hokitika

Hokitika

Hokitika Gorge

Take A Moment to Look Around

Goat’s beard lichen

Splitgill mushroom

A Wish For A Year in Provence or At Least Another Two Weeks

Recent Posts

Blogroll

Meta