March 2026
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A Trip to Spain: Madrid

Authors Note: Linda and I took an 18 day trip to Spain.  It was not part of a professional photo-shoot. I carried only an IPhone and the Sony RXR1 as photographic gear.  It was agreed, as with most vacation trips we take, the photos captured would be Tourist shots.

Madrid is a sophisticated, large, and magnificent city. After Berlin, it is the largest in the European Union (3.4M city proper 7M metro). Madrid has its act together and is progressing to the positive.  Madrid has an elegance and sense of stature to it.  With England, and therefore London, leaving the European Union, Madrid is taking a larger role and presence in the financial space.

As with many European cities. Madrid is a walking town, and Linda and I are walking people. Linda and I stayed six nights in a home in the Chamberi – Salamanca district. This is one of the nicer areas in Madrid.  We had easy access to museums, places of historical note, and terrific local establishments.

The big tourist spots (The Royal Palace, San Miquel Market, Prado Museum, City Mayor, Retiro) are worth every moment of your time.  Do not pass on a visit to any of them. The architecture of multiple centuries remains to a great degree. What was most enjoyable to me was the walk from our home to each of these areas of interest.  It allowed Linda and I to see first hand how the city lives and breaths. 

There are the usual Tourist Trap type of streets.  Luckily, there are not too many. However, they exist, are grimy, and are sprinkled with homeless people whom live in make-shift corrugated cardboard boxes set in building door wells. It is not as pervasive as that of today’s Manhattan, Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, or Los Angeles.  The difference is that Madrid, especially its superlative parks, have no enclaves of homeless tent cities.

However, the beauty of the city’s core is at times undermined by graffiti.  At least that is how I see it. In some places, it is extensive.

The Plaza Mayor

The Retiro

The Train Station in Madrid

Walking on the way to the Prado

The Wall of Nature

Madrid, a city of well kept buildings with city squares.

I’ve Got It!

Crystal Palace Retiro Park

Me with my Best Girl by my side.

Linda at the Royal Palace

Each town has its Icon. This is Madrid’s.

Madrid and what we were able to cover walking. As a reference the distance between Alexandra’s home and the Atocha Train station is a little over 3 miles.

— Jeff’s Worthless Trivia and Other Thoughts —

Linda and I are members of HomeExchange.  It is an organization of home owners who exchange staying at each other’s home.  Linda and I have been members since HomeExchange’s inception in the 1990’s.  We exchanged with Alexandra who has a wonderful place in Madrid.  In my mind, staying in someone’s home is vastly superior to that of a hotel. The HE ground rule is no money is exchanged between the Members. Home Exchange verifies (prior to getting a membership), people are who they say they are, the home is real, and they own it.

As with many of the European countries, the operating aspect of daily life is distinctly different than the United States.  The day in Madrid, does not really begin until 10AM.  Some shops (Coffee, Bakery, etc.) will open at 8AM.  They are few and far between.  Most operations close down for a few hours starting at 2PM and re-open at 5PM.  Most restaurants if open during the daytime will close at 2PM and re-open at 8PM.  Nightlife continues well into the morning hours.

Madrid has an extensive rail, subway, bus, and cab system.  We walked, but if any of these transportation options are needed or desired – they were close by and readily available at all hours.  A car is not needed to enjoy central Madrid,  In fact it is a liability.

Each of the neighborhoods are filled with small specialty stores, markets, pharmacies, coffee shops and the restaurants.  Do not expect to load up with everything at Costco at the start of the trip.

I strongly recommend you purchase tickets to the museums and other exhibits on-line with designated start times.  This action may prove to be the greatest provider of satisfaction and saver of time for the entire trip.

I am a coffee drinker.  I am used to a hot full mug of Joe, with cream and no sugar to start my day and continue throughout as needed.  No such concoction exists in Spain, Nespresso makers produce small luke-warm products one-quarter the size I expect.  there is no concept of Cream for your coffee in Spain.  Pastries and breads are simply wonderful. However, a breakfast bagel with sausage and swiss cheese will not be found.  I did not miss it!

Jamon is the legendary food product of Spain.  Most often it is Iberian Ham cured, and stored for weeks and then dried for months.  The best of the best is the the presa and the pluma.  They are two different cuts of meat, but they are similar in size. The presa is sometimes known as the pork’s caviar for its exclusivity — it’s hidden between the cabecero or shoulder collar and the shoulder itself. The thick-cut is insanely juicy, and it’s best enjoyed when grilled at high heat.  I enjoyed a presa cut prepared to perfection,  My goodness it would fool the best steak lover.

After a week in central Madrid, I had come to believe there was no such thing as a Shopping Mall. Boy, was I wrong.  We had heard about a really good Argentinian restaurant near the Hilton Hotel at the airport.  As always Linda and I found a way to walk to it.  What we did not know, was the restaurant (CHE!!!) was located on the 3rd floor of the Plenilunio Shopping mall. The mall was the best (or worst) of U.S. Malls in their heyday.  We had dinner at 9PM on a Sunday night.  The mall was packed with people and families until well past 10PM.

I strongly suggest reading up on Spain and Madrid’s history, prior to arrival, It is fascinating, and will help you understand the interplay of religion, society and cultures that have influenced what you will experience.

Fire in the Yard: The Ross Fork

The Ross Fork Fire in the Sawtooth Wilderness and Sawtooth National Recreation Area (SNRA) is a challenging wildfire for the community.  Information about the incident is [here]

It has spread into and burned remote areas utilized by recreationists.  The Ross Fork Fire as also burned out drainages with cabins and reached into the tiny enclaves of Smiley Creek and Sawtooth City.  Two homes have been lost to the fire (to date).

I commute the 61 miles between Stanley and Ketchum on a regular basis.  The commute on State Highway 75 requires driving over Galena Summit (8,701 ft.).  Highway 75 has been closed – at times – due to the fire jumping across the road.  On some days the Air Quality Index (AQI) has ranged for Extremely Unhealthy to Hazardous for the entire route. On the days the highway has been closed, an alternate route has been utilized turning the 122 mile round trip into a 315 mile effort.  Lacking a 4 wheel drive vehicle the alternate route is 416 miles round trip.

Overlooking the Salmon River near Galena Summit. © Copyright Jeffrey H Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

The Ross Fork Fire Ignites near the Headwaters of the Salmon River.  The River Valley covered in smoke.

The Ross Fork Fire Ignites near the Headwaters of the Salmon River. The River Valley covered in smoke. © Copyright Jeffrey H Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

A video of the ignition from Galena Summit is located [HERE].

Approaching Galena Summit with Smoke as thick as can be.  The morning sun attempts to pierce the smoke layer.

Approaching Galena Summit with Smoke as thick as can be. The morning sun attempts to pierce the smoke layer. © Copyright Jeffrey H Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

A Reconnaissance Like No Other

Glassford Peak is on my mind.  The mountain has been on my mind for the past 40 years. I have yet to climb it. Glassford (11,602 ft.) is buried in the middle of the Boulder Hemmingway Wilderness.  It is the third highest peak in the Boulder Mountain Range.

Glassford is the most prominent peak heading into (from the south) and out of (to the north) Ketchum, Idaho.

Looking west at Glassford Peak from the Top of Ryan Peak.

I have summitted the tallest (Ryan at 11,714ft.) and most of the high peaks in the Boulder Mountain Range.  Last year, my son Kyle and I, summited Galena Peak (11,153 ft.) on my birthday.

The Post for Galena Peak is [here].

The Post for Ryan Peak is [here].

Glassford intrigues me, in that I see it most every day while at home in Ketchum or on my way to the cabin in Stanley. Summitting Glassford is a difficult proposition because both the ascent routes involve six plus miles of climbing\scrambling in the back-country and at least 5,000+ vertical feet of gain.

I have a good idea what it will take to summit via the south route (Wood River).  I have travelled material portions of the route.  I know little about attempting to summit form the north.  Notes about the ascent from the north indicate it is more straight forward, but includes more gain in elevation.  The ascent from the north is materially more isolated and requires extensive travel by vehicle in the back-country.

I decide it is time for a little reconnaissance.  I decide to go to the starting point of the northern ascent of Glassford.  This effort entails 73.07 miles and 2 hours and 13 minutes of travel (one way) from the cabin in Stanley.  This means, traveling out of the Sawtooth Mountains, down the magnificent and rugged Salmon River Canyon, down the magnificent and isolated East Fork Salmon River Canyon, through the White Cloud Mountain Range and Cecil Andrus – White Cloud Wilderness, deep into the heart of the northern Boulder Mountain Range and, deep into the West Pass Creek canyon and Hemingway-Boulder Wilderness.

The trip from Stanley losses almost a 1,000 vertical on the Salmon to East Fork and then gains 2,000 vertical to West Pass.

The Border Collies (Sage and Willow) suggest they join me for support and encouragement

The Recon Route.

For climbers starting in Ketchum, the North Route means 134+ miles of travel before starting the ascent.  The irony is that the trailhead starting points for the South and North routes is less than ten miles apart.  Most of the notations from climbers suggest the north route is worth the travel distance if an overnighter of camping can be made.

I have spent a great deal of time on the East Fork of the Salmon River.  I have conducted and completed a variety of efforts in the region.  However, I have never travelled to the end of the road.

The East Fork of the Salmon River Road is other worldly – in terms of terrain and human-kind. Much of the first miles of the river floor is held in private hands.  However, these lands are immediately and entirely surrounded by government land. The owners (ranches, homes, retreats, buildings and structures of all types) are best described as independent.  The owners come from just about every socio-economic background imaginable.  Most of the owners I have met are polite and courteous. However, most are somewhat skeptical of outsiders.

East Fork Salmon River Road is paved (kind of) to the turn out for Big Boulder Basin.  Taken at  30-35 mph the route is rather enjoyable.  The subsequent dirt Forest Service Road (#120) is well maintained and straight-forward.  I have travelled #120 as far as Little Bolder Creek Campground and Trailhead.

At about five miles from the end of USFS Development Road #120, private property is encountered.  The property (and therefore the road) is gated.  Signs inform travelers they are leaving Forest Service Lands and about to enter private property.  The landowner grants all travelers free access past the gate as long as they stay on the road.  Travelers are warned (explicitly) that leaving the road will be considered trespassing and dealt with accordingly.  After one mile, the private property ends and another gate (with signs indicating the opposite) appear.  Opening and closing the gate is straight-forward.  The road-bed on the private property is poorly maintained and rough for travel.

In another mile Forest Service #120 is met on the left by West Pass Creek Road (USFS Development Road #063).  The 3.2 miles of travel up West Pass Creek Road to the West Pass Trailhead is much more forest service back-country-ish in nature.  However, it is straightforward to navigate if you take your time.  Forest Service #120 continues for another mile to its end-point – The Bowery Guard Station.

I took the time to travel to the end of both roads and hike in the area (on and off trail).

The scenery and beauty of the area is remarkable.

The U.S.F.S. Bowery Guard Station.

View of the East Fork of the Salmon River looking south from a ridgeline above the Bowery Guard Station. The peaks in the distance in the center: (left to right) Easley (11,108 ft.), Cerro Ciento (11,154 ft.), and Galena (11,153 ft.).

View of the East Fork of the Salmon River looking north from a ridgeline above the Bowery Guard Station.  The peak on the right (9,420 ft.) is unnamed.

The West Pass Trail at the entry into the Hemingway – Boulder Wilderness.

Willow (left) and Sage grab a quick bath and drink of water in West Pass Creek where the trail crosses the creek.

**** Jeff’s Thoughts and Other Worthless Trivia ****

This is not the first or nor will it be the last spot in the region where I have to open\close gates into and out of private property on a Forest Service Road.