Jeff Lubeck

One word for Tomar and Castle of the Knights Templar: Spectacular

Castle of the Knights Templar as the sun sets

Using the word spectacular when describing a place, person, or thing can prove dangerous. As it relates to Portugal, I will take the risk. The Castle of the Knights Templar and Convent of Christ is otherwise spectacular.

To reach the Castle of the Knights Templar and Convent of Christ, you must travel through the beautiful Portuguese town of Tomar. Tomar is a 90-minute drive from Lisbon. Tomar sits on the Nabao River. The riverfront park is clean and lush. The town is colorful and enchanting, with tile roofs and the deep red Knights Tomar emblem.

Tomar does not feel touristy. Shops on the narrow streets are well stocked, varied in theme, and appear to be owned by locals. The center of town is bright and alive. Neighborhoods surrounding the center of town are pretty and well kept.

The chessboard-like plaza in the center of town contains the Church of John the Baptist and a modern statue of Gualdim Pais. Pais led the defense during a siege of Tomar. The setting is impressive.

Church of John the Baptist

Center Square of Tomar

The streets of Tomar

A neighborhood home in Tomar

Tomar’s surrounding area is likely the most fertile in Portugal, maybe even Iberia. Its agriculture includes olives, figs, pine, and eucalyptus trees.

All Goes Through Tomar

The castle’s protection was the purpose of Tomar’s creation. The streets of the village provide access to the castle. In 1166, Tomar was the last of the Templar towns created.

Tomar was central to Portugal’s expansion in the 15th century because of Prince Henry the Navigator. Henry was the Grand Master of the Order of Christ. They succeeded the Knights Templar and controlled most things in Portugal, including banking.

Support from the Order of Christ came in many forms. You might require help in seeking the Holy Grail, fighting a religious war, sailing to the end of the earth, acquiring a loan, or depositing money.

Castle of the Knights Templar and Convent of Christ

The Castle of the Knights Templar and Convent of Christ sit high above the town of Tomar.

We climbed to the castle from Tomar via ancient, narrow, and steep paths. The grounds are enormous.

In the late 1100s, the Knights Templar erected the castle and church. The castle has withstood multiple sieges. The Moors were the first to try taking the castle in 1190. Pais turned them back. Napoleon tried in the early 1800s during the Peninsula War.

The area has undergone major changes.

King Denis of Portugal ordered the convent to be built in 1317. The Order of Christ moved into the castle in 1357. They made further changes and additions, including a palace for Henry, and the addition of a nave to the church. King John III of Portugal made significant additions to support the monastery in the 1600s.

Different architectural styles are apparent while touring the castle, church and convent. Exterior walls and towers are akin to those constructed in the north of France and Britain. Gothic is the style of the nave. Designers employed the Manueline style for the church.

Simple and austere best describe the convent and monastery. Darkness, shadow, bright sunshine streaking through the windows was a fascinating aspect of the monastery.

A Complicated History

Tomar, the Knights Templar, the Order of Christ, and the castle and convent have a long, extraordinary, and complicated history. All of it is why I desired a visit. Below are resources to learn more.

Travel writer Rick Steve explains Tomar [here].

Some excellent background about the Knights Templar is located [here].

A detailed description of the Order of Christ’s history is [here].

The Visit

On this trip, I would have spent more time in this area and less elsewhere. For instance, I could see myself spending less time in Porto or Lisbon, and more time in Tomar.

* Jeff’s Thought’s and Other Worthless Trivia *

The Sanctuary of Fatima Exceeds Expectations

Fatima.

How best to describe a visit to the Sanctuary of Fatima in the country of Portugal?

The experience of a November visit to the Sanctuary proved beyond anything expected.

Background of Fatima

A visit to Fatima warranted some research. The story of the Sanctuary of Fatima is fascinating on a variety of levels. Travel writer Rick Steve explains with great care [here].

Fatima’s village has its roots in the 1100s. The Moors named it after a princess. She would convert to Catholicism.

Material changes to the village happened because of unexpected events in 1916 and 1917.

Three shepherd children encounter visions of an angel (1916) followed by the Virgin Mary (1917). Later in 1917, people predicted a ‘Miracle of the Sun’. With 70,000 people observing, the ‘Miracle of the Sun’ occurs. In 1930, the Catholic Church confirmed these events as authentic.

Religious significance has grown at the Sanctuary of Fatima over a period of about 100 years. It receives 6 to 8 million religious pilgrims each year, and the facilities have grown to support the increase in demand.

We traveled to Fatima after a stay in the lovely coastal towns of Costa Nova and Barra near the city of Aveiro, Portugal. The drive to Fatima took about 90 minutes.

Upon arrival, the sun is shining accompanied by a crisp morning air.

Getting a Feel for the Place

The Sanctuary of Fatima in 2025 is serious and huge. It is bigger than expected.

The Sanctuary of Fatima is not a place of blatant market capitalism. You cannot buy Virgin Mary shirts in team uniforms at any trinket shop.

We visited on a Sunday morning. The Sanctuary of Fatima did not feel crowded.

The Pilgrims

Fatima Pilgrimage Path

The people on their religious journey have a display of authentic faith. Observing the religious pilgrims crawling on their knees or elbows or even their stomachs was humbling.

People of every age and background were nearing the end of their trip.

Some were solitary or accompanied by their spouses or friends. A few individuals were with who appeared to be their whole families.

The Grounds and Buildings

The Esplanade is an enormous place for gathering. Fountains and statues are throughout to add a level of intimacy. The statue of the Virgin Mary towers over me.

To our surprise, we could attend Mass at the Basilica of Our Lady of Fatima. I felt a warmth develop within me. The Basilica of Our Lady of Fatima contains within it a 200-foot spire. The 14 Stations of the Cross and statues of the three shepherd children are present. This place is remarkable.

Mass at the Basilica of Our Lady of Fatima

The Alter after Mass

A Minor Blemish

There is one aspect of the Sanctuary of Fatima that did not resonate. It was the Church of the Holy Trinity. I have read about its reason for being. The reasoning seems logical and practical. It can seat 10 times more people than the Basilica of Our Lady of Fatima. It contains stone offered by the Vatican.

However, the Church of the Holy Trinity seems misplaced. It looks like a 21st century sports stadium. It only lacks the giant corporate logo paid for with Naming Rights money.

The Church of the Holy Trinity is a minor flaw in an otherwise excellent experience.

Statues Resonate

Most of the aspects of the Sanctuary of Fatima fully resonate. For example, there are statues located throughout that are captivating.

The Virgin Mary watches over

Lúcia dos Santos – the shepherd girl

* Jeff’s Thoughts and Other Worthless Trivia *

Religion

Religion and religious beliefs can cause problems in a public forum. I am not a member of the Catholic Church. I am an Episcopalian long in lapse.

However, I am interested in religion, and its role in history. I have been for my entire life.

Pilgrims

I chose not to photograph any person on the Pilgrimage Path. I thought it would intrusive and disrespectful. The biggest surprise for me was witnessing little kids on the walk, on their knees, and what appeared to be unattended.

The Duero and Duoro are Dynamic and Dramatic

Duero and Duoro are names for a dynamic and dramatic European river. Regardless of the naming, the 554-mile waterway is rich in history, crucial economically, and replete with spectacular views and great-tasting wines.

The Duoro River at Peso da Regua

River and Its Wine

The Duero and Duoro River with Trip Area Highlighted

Spain is where the Duero originates. Upon reaching the border with Portugal, its name changes to the Duoro. Ironically, the type of wine produced in each country also changes.

The Duero region in Spain is where you can find Tempranillo grapes, known for their deeply colored wines. Port, a fortified wine from Portugal, is a worldwide favorite.

Portugal has very strict rules for classifying wine. Protection of the designation of origin (DOC) is part of the classification process. Douro possesses the highest wine classification in Portugal.

Visit to the Duoro

This journey centers on Portugal’s Douro River, from Peso da Regua to Pinhao. Arrival time is between the end of October and the first week of November. Enormous crowds at the late summer harvest have disappeared. Deep red and burnt orange, the colors of fall, are reaching their peak. For a visitor, the Duoro is accessible and stunning.

This portion of the Duoro River Valley has a steep landscape. Really steep. Stone terraces are prominent. They exist to better facilitate the wine growing and to protect against deadly pests. The terraces are powerful in appearance.

The Duoro River Near Pinhao

The Terraces on the Duoro

Peso da Regua and Pinhao look like picture postcards. Peso da Regua feels alive, full of locals drinking coffee while gossiping at cafes. Pinhao feels sleepy, ready to provide a day that is private and comfortable.

Peso da Regua Portugal

Pinhao Portugal

Pedestrian Bridge Crossing of the Duoro at Peso da Regua

The Duoro Looking East at Peso da Regua

The Duoro Looking West at Peso da Regua

You can travel this section of the river in several ways: car, bus, train, private boat, or tour boat. The journey and the towns are exceptionally enjoyable. Road N222 is also called the Douro Wine Route.

Vineyards

People know wineries as quintas in Portugal. There are about 80 registered vineyards between Peso da Regua and Pinhao. Most have tasting rooms. Many operate as hotels or bed-and-breakfast inns.

Most of the quintas are family-owned and operated. Some are closed to visitors during this time of year. The best and most flexible way to visit the vineyards and tasting rooms is to travel by car.

Duoro River near Quinta do Panascal Vineyard Portugal

In discussion with locals at the Museum do Duro, the consensus for most reliable and authentic wines and vineyards is:

Quinta do Tedo

Quinta do Vallado

Quinta do Seixo

Road Less Traveled

Route to Duoro

The A4 highway from Porto is probably the most popular route for tourists going to the Douro River Valley. It starts in a major tourist-heavy city, with travel on a major road. The trip takes about 1.5 hours one-way. Boat and train travel from Porto are also popular methods.

One choice is to begin elsewhere and use smaller roads for travel. This route might be less stressful, more scenic, and extend the trip by only 30 minutes.

The optional plan starts in Aveiro’s coastal towns (Barra and Costa Nova) on the A25. It heads towards the hills and mountains near Viseu.

West of Viseu, at Confulcos, is where secondary road travel begins. Navigation includes travel through hills, mountainsides, and the small towns of Vouzela, Sao Pedro du Sul, Cobertinha, and Castro Daire.

This segment of the Duoro River Valley journey is highly rewarding. There is little traffic; and the landscape is diverse and engaging. Sunny skies are prevalent. Occasionally, mist appears, disappears, and re-appears moving between hills, valleys and towns.

Portugal rarely sees snowfall. However, it’s clear that snowfall is common here because there are signs with snowflake and snowplow images on the roadside.

Castro Daire is the meeting point for another major highway (A24). The A24 heads north by northeast from Castro Daire. It reaches an elevation of 4,600 feet before dropping into the Duoro River Valley at Peso da Regua.

The Stripped Homes of Costa Nova

Misty Morning near Vouzela

The Highway Begins its Descent to Vouzela

Sao Pedro do Sol

Route to the Duoro Castro Daire in Color

Good Reads

Wine expert Randy Hamilton excellently explains the river and its differences from a wine perspective [here].

Capitalism was Portugal’s bet for the Douro’s future, made by a country that was socialist. Travel writer Rick Steves provides superb background and history of the Duoro, which is located [here].

* Jeff’s Thoughts and Other Worthless Trivia *

Exchanging Your Home

One of the most enjoyable aspects of travel for my wife and me is HomeExchange.

We use HomeExchange to exchange our home for another, such that we can travel and stay in a pleasant place without cost for the related stay.

There is an annual membership fee for HomeExchange. Members do not exchange any money in the house exchange. We have been members of HomeExchange since its start in the 1990s.

On our trip to Portugal, Linda and I stayed in Luz. Barra\Costa Nova, and CasCais. Each of the locations and homes was our first choice.

Camera Gear

Below, for the pixel peepers, is a listing of the camera gear I used. Each of the setups captured images displayed in the Post.

2 Nikon Z9 camera bodies.
NIKKOR Z 24-70MM 2.8 S II lens.
NIKKOR Z 70-200MM 2.8 S lens.
Nikon TC 2x teleconverter.
PHASEONE IQ4 150 digital back.
Schneider APO-DIGITAR 5.6 60MM Copal Shutter lens.
Cambo WRS5000 technical camera.

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