April 2026
M T W T F S S
 12345
6789101112
13141516171819
20212223242526
27282930  

Up to The Rooftop

Idaho has much to offer, including U.S. Forest Service (USFS) Roads. While sometimes challenging to travel, USFS Roads can offer exceptional views.

USFS Road 669 is one such example.  USFS #669 reaches 10,433 feet above sea-level.  It is the 8th highest road (of any kind of surface) that can be reached by a 4 wheel-drive or passenger vehicle in the United States.

The road that reaches the highest elevation in the United States is White Mountain Peak Road in California at 14,252 above sea level.  However, a locked gate at 11,360 feet above sea level blocks travel to the public.  The highest paved road is Mt Evans (14,132) in Colorado.  This road is open to the public between Memorial Day and Labor Day.  Pikes Peak Road (14,115) is the 2nd highest paved road.  It is a Toll Road.  I drove to the summit of Pikes Peak in the 1980’s when it was unpaved and had no Toll Fee.

USFS #669 is not paved, restricted by locked gates, possess no formal open and closing dates and does not charge a Toll Fee for access.  USFS #669 should be characterized as a Road using the loosest of terms.  USFS #669 gains 3,212 vertical feet in slightly less than 4 miles distance. So yes, it is steep – and really, really steep in places.  It is not a road to travel using a traditional passenger, SUV, or 4 wheel-drive low-clearance vehicle. The road is narrow and possesses few turnouts. This is not a road to travel in bad weather.

However, the roadbed of USFS #669 is exceptionally well built and straight-forward to negotiate.  If you know what you are doing and have a capable vehicle, USFS #669 is actually a ton of fun to drive – with the views at the summit being as good as it gets.

Railroad Ridge Summit sits about 35 air miles from my cabin in Stanley Idaho.  Given the mountainous nature of the area I must travel 75+ miles to reach it.  The trip involves traveling east on Highway 75 about 43 miles along the Salmon River to the point where the East Fork of the Salmon River empties into the Main Salmon River. This section includes a descent of 1,400+ vertical feet – to an elevation of 5,344 feet above sea level.

To reach the Railroad Ridge Summit from the junction of Idaho 75 and East Fork of the Salmon River Road (East Fork Road) I will travel about 30 miles and gain 5,100+ vertical feet of elevation.  The trip includes travelling along the eastern edge of the White Cloud Mountain Range and slowly working my way back (west) towards Stanley into the heart of the White Clouds.

This section includes about 20 miles of travel south and then east on East Fork Road, followed by six miles on the dirt and gravel oriented Big Boulder Creek Road (USFS #677) and then up USFS #669 from the site of the abandoned Livingston Mill.

East Fork Road is an interesting drive to me. The area feels stark and isolated, with a smattering of ranches, homes, mobile homes, Motor Homes on cement pad , and what could best be described as other types of dwellings providing habitation for humans. While technically not off the grid, it sure feels like it. 

Because it is on the eastern side of effectively two mountain ranges this area is in the rain shadow so-to-speak. The landscape looks much like Nevada, eastern California or eastern Oregon.

When encountering people of the area, they appear to be guarded almost leary but never mean spirited or confrontational,.

The Livingston Mine was first discovered and established in July of 1882 by A.S. and W.S. Livingston.  The Livingston and Little Livingston mines operated under one ownership.  The claim and operation have been held by 10 different people\organizations.  The claim is technically still active and ownership is held by the Swanson family of Idaho Falls – who purchased it in 1960 out of bankruptcy.  The mine has not been active since the late 1950’s and all buildings and infrastructure have been abandoned.

With the creation of the Sawtooth National Recreation Area in 1972, the site was eventually deemed hazardous (toxic) by the USFS. The site was cleaned up and reclaimed by the USFS in 2008.  The clean-up cost $1.2M in 2008 (as reported by the Idaho Mountain Express).

The Livingston Mine produced Gold, Silver, Copper, Lead, and Zinc totalling (by my estimates) $31,125,946 of revenue at today’s prices.  A 1997 study by Victoria Mitchell of the Idaho Geologic Survey estimates that $26,465,375 could be yielded from the remaining 50,000 tons of ore remaining in the mines at today’s prices.

The Livingston Mill represents the starting point of USFS Road #669 and the big ascent. USFS Road #669 gains elevation quickly and heavy forestation returns in places with it.  Similar to the Sun Valley area, sage brush occupies the slopes with southern exposure and trees on the slopes with northern exposure.

As I complete the last long steep section from Livingston Mill I see the top section of  Railroad Ridge. Given the terrain for the previous 3+ miles the top section feels super long and unbelievably level.  I have never experienced this kind of terrain 2 miles into the sky in Idaho.

As I move to the west, I look back to the east.  The Lost River Range and its eight peaks 12,000 + feet above sea-level is in full view. Borah (the tallest in Idaho) is dead center.  Leatherman (the 2nd tallest in Idaho) is just to the right.  I summited Borah in the 1980’s (via Chicken Out Ridge) and climbed Leatherman (via the Class IV+ Northern Route) in 2015.

Looking west and jumping out right in front of me is Watson Peak as well as are the big unnamed peaks of the White Clouds (i.e., #4, #5, & #6). In the distance are some of the biggest peaks of the Sawtooths – Thompson Peak (tallest) at center, Williams Peak at right and Mickey’s spire at left.  I have had the pleasure climbing each of them in the past few years. My cabin in Goat Creek sits below them to the right.

To the southwest is the Chinese Wall and below it Crater Lake.   The knob on the far left is Peak 10,817. 

What a series of views!

The goal in the coming weeks is to scamper (say it out-loud in the voice of Hockey Announcer Extraordinaire Doc Emmeric) to the top of Peak 10,817 and follow the long ridgeline to the southeast and photograph the Gunsight, Caulkins Peak, White Cloud Peak #10, Tin Cup Lake, and the Gunsight Creek Basin. 

If weather and traversing the 10,000 – 11,000 ridgelines is possible (which look to be the case) I hope to capture D.O. Lee Peak and the numerous 11,000+ peaks surrounding the Big Horn and Big Boulder Creek drainages.

It should be noted I recently purchased a new rig and have been putting it through the paces.  Based on the marketing hype, my truck – a Ford Raptor – was designed and built exactly for the kind of terrain and challenges I encounter.  At this juncture it has performed flawlessly.

On this trip I was able to test – to the fullest – a new aspect of its operational capability (for 2019) – Trail Control. In short, think Off Trail Cruise Control (uphill and downhill).  As a point of reference this trip includes 3,212 feet vertical in slightly less than 4 miles (or 803 feet per mile).  I was able to go up and back down with rarely the need to touch the accelerator or brake throughout the ascent and descent in this section.  I focused on the steering and controlling speed with my finger tips.

To be perfectly honest, I was skeptical that this aspect would perform as advertised.  I did not think it would have a practical use in the terrain and environment in which I operated. As the great late Dom Deluise (in the role of a Hollywood Film Director in Blazing Saddles with a Megaphone) stated: WRONG!

Trying Out The New Rig – Revisiting The 2012 Halstead Fire

 The Cherokee moves to the history books and the Raptor enters the scene.

My 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland has been retired as my Rig for Backcountry Photo-shoots. It served me exceedingly well for over 7 years.

I took possession of the Jeep at the end of June 2012.  After months of intense research and test drives the Jeep was deemed to be the very best at meeting my need to travel almost anywhere (i.e., local, highway, forest service roads, off trail routes).

The Jeep as outfitted allowed me to travel with all the creature comforts I desired and also get me to the top of places such as Minebender with plenty of vehicle remaining.  Many of my photo-shoots relied entirely on the Jeep getting to a crucial spot in the remote backcountry.

Sitting at Galena Summit in 2013, The Jeep awaits our return (Kyle & Jeff) from summiting four peaks. It is in one big day; Lower Titus, Upper Titus, Bromaghin and Saviers – the tallest in the Smoky Mountain Range.  In the distance is Ryan Peak, the tallest in the Boulder Mountain Range which we summited weeks earlier.

About 40 days into ownership of the Jeep,  the Halstead Fire of Idaho began on August 6, 2012.  The Halstead would become a large monster – burning up 179,000 + acres in the Sawooth and Salmon-Challis National forest.  A great deal of the timber that would succumb to the fire was virgin forest. 

A good deal of what remains as virgin forest in the Continental United States is located in Idaho. 

The fire started as a result of a lightning strike; so nature rules.

Following the same kind of natural selection or evolution process,  the Jeep needed to make way for a new Rig.

Unfortunately, Fiat Chrysler decided the 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland would no longer make available the creature comforts of its 2012 predecessor. So the Jeep was taken off the list of possible replacements.

So what is my selection criteria?  Go anywhere in practically any condition with all the right gadgets, have good creature comforts such as a top notch sound system, drive nicely on the highway, accommodate the dogs, accomodate my gear, tow a 23 foot boat and not break the bank. Yes… in short, have my cake and eat it too.

The final candidates using the selection criteria were the 2019 Mercedes G-Wagon, the 2019/20 Range Rover Sport HSE/SVR and the 2019 Ford Raptor.

Oh, yes, the Rolls Royce SUV is turning out to be everything promised.  However, the last time I looked I was a smidge short of the $325,000 needed for purchase.  Plus British edicate requires purchasing the services of a full-time driver.

The G-Wagon with its military linage is accompanied with every possible feature and function anyone would want.  In 2019 Mercedes re-built the G-Wagon from the ground up.  Different than its predecessors the 2019 G-Wagon drives as wonderfully on the road as off.

The Range Rover is a superb vehicle and was leading the race late in the selection process. The Land Rover dealer Lyle Pearson in Boise is well known to us for other cars we own and have owned.  They are a great dealership. The demand for the Ranger Rover is high.

One small problem for Jeff… no dealers in the United States (I mean none) outfit the Range Rover Sport HSE/SVR to its full backcountry potential. Land Rover is known for its foo-foo features.  I wanted less of those but everything needed to get me anywhere.  So while Land Rover sells the concept of its unequaled ruggedness and comfort it appears no dealers or Americans actually want or use them.  So in order to get what I wanted I would need to order the vehicle.  Despite the best efforts of Lyle Pearson, delivery time ETA was 4-5 months.

The situation for the Ford Raptor was even more dire.  For most of 2019 demand exceeded supply. No Raptors were available in the region – none.

Luckily I had purchased an 8 year 100,000 mile bumper-to-bumper repair coverage plan for the Jeep, so I could be patient.

During the search process, the Jeep while awesome, was starting to show a need for servicing.  Also, the local Jeep dealership had left the area. So, I was now being forced to take trips to Twin Falls (71 miles away).  The dealership in Twin Falls (Lithia) was nice and accommodating but the travel time and (free) rental car hassle was beginning to prove problematic.

While having a cup of coffee in Twin Falls waiting for The Jeep to be serviced, and coming to the conclusion I would buy a Range Rover and wait five months for delivery, I decided to look and see if any Raptors were available in the region.

Ironically our local dealership (Silver Creek Ford) that is allocated 1 or 2 Raptors a year (at least that is what they told me in April) has one on the lot.  It had arrived the day before.  Even stranger, the vehicle was outfitted exactly as I desired (down to the color).  In short, this Raptor had all the goods but without three features – none of which I wanted. The features were two graphics packages (i.e, RAPTOR) that scream-out on the vehicle and some type of Carbon-fiber coffee holder and steering wheel trim.

Another advantage coming into play is I know and like the people at Silver Creek Ford and the purchase is local.  The dealership even let us (Kyle and I) drive to Galena Summit and on the Boulder Creek jeep trail as the final test drive.

A deal is made.

As for the Raptors first big test, I decide to venture back into where the Halstead Fire completed a Hard-Burn seven year previous.

As a brief backgrounder, wildfires in the Western U.S. recently have burned at an unprecedented rate since accurate and verifiable records have been maintained.  Fires in 1910’s, 1930’s and late 1950’s were substantial but no reasonable comparison from a statistical perspective can be made.  There was a material drop in wildfires from the 1960’s up to the late 1990’s.  The increase since 2000 is material.

This post is not about climate change or a lack there-of and the reasoning behind the positions held by various parties advocating one position or the other.  However, the numbers are what they are regardless as to the why.

Wildfires in the United States 2000-2018

 

Wildfires in the Northwestern U.S. 2000-2018

Wildfires in the Northwestern U.S. 2000-2018

 

Fires in Jeff’s Backyard 2000-2018

 

The Halstead Fire 2012 (Blue in center area).

So… while recording a full afternoon of college football, I and the Raptor head out from our cabin in Stanley and travel along the Salmon River to the east.

As most of you know my love and interest in this region is great.  Driving along the Salmon (i.e., River of No Return) east from Stanley to Challis is as ruggedly beautiful as it gets. Each and every time I travel this 60 mile section I marvel at the beauty I am afforded. Its equal is the 61 mile section of the Sawtooth Valley south between Stanley and Sun Valley – for completely different reasons.  I pinch myself – as to my good fortune – each and every time I make these drives.  I never ever take their beauty for granted.

The Trip

I will test the Raptor by attempting to travel the entire 17+ mile length of Forest Service Road 183 counter clockwise.  I will start at Highway 75 and Basin Creek and [sic., hopefully] end at Highway 75 and Lower Harden Creek.

FS Road 183 is demanding for any vehicle. I have been told that travelling the entire length of this road has been impossible for traditional off road passenger type vehicles – including four-wheel drive trucks – since the fire. Some people who have been up to the area in ATV’s say it might now be possible.

I decide to go for it.  I pack the truck with all essentials in case I run into a real problem.  I call Linda and let her know when I am leaving and where I am going.

The starting point is a few miles after Mormon Bend and a string of Hot Springs that can be enjoyed right along the river on Highway 75.

I turn left from Highway 75 onto Basin Creek.  The signs hit me immediately.  This is a Mountainous Burn Area with Hazards, Steep Road with Limited Turnouts Ahead, Passenger Vehicles Not Advised. Ford, says it has built, and stands behind the vehicle dealing the issues the signs suggest.  

What that means to me is the Raptor is equipped with a 10 Speed automatic\manual transmission six cylinder high turbo engine that produces 480 HP and 520 ft. lbs. of torque. It also means to me the protective under carriage pans, 2W, 4WH, 4WH with locking differential. 4WL, 4WL with locking differential, Hill Descent support, a variety of adjustment levels for the specially designed shock absorbers, the ability to drive through almost 3 feet of water and provide almost 10 inches of clearance for rocks and logs better work.  Why?  This route will likely put everything into play.

It should be noted that my loving son\business partner\associate Kyle thinks I would benefit from learning and testing as many aspects of the Raptor before any big outing.  Quietly and in low key fashion I have read all manuals and tested as many features as possible at least a couple of times for the past few weeks.  I have become comfortable moving between 2H and 4WL with Locking differential in 10 speed Manual mode.

The biggest challenge during the test period is passing an old under-powered Recreational Vehicle Motor Home with Wisconsin license plates, with a barking Paris Hilton type lap dog in the back window, pulling a 2nd vehicle that is towing a motor boat – without deliberately driving them off the road.  The Raptor performed beautifully, I was at risk.

After about a mile of somewhat tricky travel, I turn right onto Coal Creek Road.  Road is a loose term in Idaho, and clearly is not applicable with the terrain before me.  Luckily, I knew this condition (to a great degree) ahead of time.  The next 4-6 miles are best described as a sketchy Jeep Trail, and a very steep one at that.  Most of the 2000+ feet of vertical gain on the trip are accomplished in this section.  The effects of the Halstead fire are apparent immediately.

The area around me reflects the result of a nasty torching followed by seven years of ground cover regrowth.  The roadbed, if you want to call it that, is punishing.  Luckily I have travelled this type of terrain in similar conditions.  The Raptor is responding to my changes quickly and smoothly.

I encounter a variety of highly sloped narrow spots, and given the steep uphill angle, I deal with them somewhat blindly.  It should be noted, I did not need to do so. Why? I forget the Raptor has a remarkable 360 degree camera the I use most days in the driveway at home to avoid hitting the dogs.

As a result of Kyle’s suggestions, I am travelling matterially slower than I would normally.  It is a good thing, as while moving in 4WL with differential at 3MPH over some logs and big boulders a couple of motorized mountain bikes come flying around a corner (downhill) directly towards me.  But for the grace of God, (or spiritual unit of your choice) both bikes avoid me by the slightest of margins.  I am surprised neither hit me.

The bikers stop and look back to me offering hand signals this condition was their bad and others are coming.  Two others follow soon thereafter, but it is on somewhat flat terrain where all parties are in clear view.

In what will prove to be the trickiest and steepest section of the trip, I encounter two guys on ATV’s fully loaded with chain saws and other cutting and clearing equipment.  One guy moves on but the other stays to chat.

I ask the guy as to what he is doing and the condition of the road. He responds “We are contractor’s attempting to clear the road. As for you, it will be pretty demanding from this point, but my question is how in God’s name did you make it this far.  The worst spots are what you came through and we barely made it ourselves.”

Impressively the guy asks me politely if I have ropes, chains, and other equipment to deal with pulling logs or extracting myself from muddy conditions.  I answer yes to all with confidence and legitimacy. The guy concludes “then you should be good to go.”  With that I move on.

The Sawtooths from the high point of FS Road 183.

The travel for the remainder of the route was exciting.  The roadbed while challenging and remarkable at a high elevation was well within the realm of what I have experienced and the Raptor could handle.

I should point out that what the US Forest Service has to tackle and accomplish as part of a Burn Area Environmental Recovery (BAER) project can be astonishing if seen first hand by a laymen or person who knows little to nothing of such an effort. The results of the BAER effort in this area is remarkable.

Test Personel

Celebrating Greenhorn

The paint is in the Paintbrush ©Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

Greenhorn Gulch is a remarkable place.  It is the recreational playground of the Wood River Valley for locals.  Walking, hiking, running, mountain biking and horse riding is conducted virtually every day by people of all skills.  The exceptional variety of terrain and level of difficulty offered by Greenhorn is like few other spots.

From its Trail-head Greenhorn offers a spoke wheel with connector of tail and trail-less opportunities involving up to 34 miles and 6,200 vertical feet of travel.  With creeks in each basin water for your four-legged friend is not an issue. Areas of heavy timber, aspens, native grass, and sage brush intertwine to offer protection from or exposure to the sun.

This past week I decided to cover the 8 mile loop of Greenhorn – Lodgepole – Cow Creek Connector and Cow Creek.

Linda, Sage of the Wood River Valley (dog), Willow of the Wood River Valley (dog) and I completed the route in the early morning – starting just after sunrise.

A few days later Sage of the Wood river Valley (dog), Willow of the Wood River Valley (dog) and I completed the rout in the late afternoon.

Heading back home as the sun ends its day. © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.


Greenhorn – Lodgepole – Cow Creek Connector – Cow Creek Loop.  8 miles 1,434 vertical feet total.


Purple and Gold.

Mahoney Butte from the Cow Creek Connector Trail


The Golden Sphere.


Paintbrush with Sage Brush (dog) Willow (dog) assisting.


Larks Croft Sage of the Wood River Valley (top) and Larks Croft Willow of the Wood River Valley.