Jeff Lubeck

The Sanctuary of Fatima Exceeds Expectations

Fatima.

How best to describe a visit to the Sanctuary of Fatima in the country of Portugal?

The experience of a November visit to the Sanctuary proved beyond anything expected.

Background of Fatima

A visit to Fatima warranted some research. The story of the Sanctuary of Fatima is fascinating on a variety of levels. Travel writer Rick Steve explains with great care [here].

Fatima’s village has its roots in the 1100s. The Moors named it after a princess. She would convert to Catholicism.

Material changes to the village happened because of unexpected events in 1916 and 1917.

Three shepherd children encounter visions of an angel (1916) followed by the Virgin Mary (1917). Later in 1917, people predicted a ‘Miracle of the Sun’. With 70,000 people observing, the ‘Miracle of the Sun’ occurs. In 1930, the Catholic Church confirmed these events as authentic.

Religious significance has grown at the Sanctuary of Fatima over a period of about 100 years. It receives 6 to 8 million religious pilgrims each year, and the facilities have grown to support the increase in demand.

We traveled to Fatima after a stay in the lovely coastal towns of Costa Nova and Barra near the city of Aveiro, Portugal. The drive to Fatima took about 90 minutes.

Upon arrival, the sun is shining accompanied by a crisp morning air.

Getting a Feel for the Place

The Sanctuary of Fatima in 2025 is serious and huge. It is bigger than expected.

The Sanctuary of Fatima is not a place of blatant market capitalism. You cannot buy Virgin Mary shirts in team uniforms at any trinket shop.

We visited on a Sunday morning. The Sanctuary of Fatima did not feel crowded.

The Pilgrims

Fatima Pilgrimage Path

The people on their religious journey have a display of authentic faith. Observing the religious pilgrims crawling on their knees or elbows or even their stomachs was humbling.

People of every age and background were nearing the end of their trip.

Some were solitary or accompanied by their spouses or friends. A few individuals were with who appeared to be their whole families.

The Grounds and Buildings

The Esplanade is an enormous place for gathering. Fountains and statues are throughout to add a level of intimacy. The statue of the Virgin Mary towers over me.

To our surprise, we could attend Mass at the Basilica of Our Lady of Fatima. I felt a warmth develop within me. The Basilica of Our Lady of Fatima contains within it a 200-foot spire. The 14 Stations of the Cross and statues of the three shepherd children are present. This place is remarkable.

Mass at the Basilica of Our Lady of Fatima

The Alter after Mass

A Minor Blemish

There is one aspect of the Sanctuary of Fatima that did not resonate. It was the Church of the Holy Trinity. I have read about its reason for being. The reasoning seems logical and practical. It can seat 10 times more people than the Basilica of Our Lady of Fatima. It contains stone offered by the Vatican.

However, the Church of the Holy Trinity seems misplaced. It looks like a 21st century sports stadium. It only lacks the giant corporate logo paid for with Naming Rights money.

The Church of the Holy Trinity is a minor flaw in an otherwise excellent experience.

Statues Resonate

Most of the aspects of the Sanctuary of Fatima fully resonate. For example, there are statues located throughout that are captivating.

The Virgin Mary watches over

Lúcia dos Santos – the shepherd girl

Jesus as striking as I ever havecseen.

* Jeff’s Thoughts and Other Worthless Trivia *

Religion

Religion and religious beliefs can cause problems in a public forum. I am not a member of the Catholic Church. I am an Episcopalian long in lapse.

However, I am interested in religion, and its role in history. I have been for my entire life.

Pilgrims

I chose not to photograph any person on the Pilgrimage Path. I thought it would intrusive and disrespectful. The biggest surprise for me was witnessing little kids on the walk, on their knees, and what appeared to be unattended.

The Duero and Duoro are Dynamic and Dramatic

Duero and Duoro are names for a dynamic and dramatic European river. Regardless of the naming, the 554-mile waterway is rich in history, crucial economically, and replete with spectacular views and great-tasting wines.

The Duoro River at Peso da Regua

River and Its Wine

The Duero and Duoro River with Trip Area Highlighted

Spain is where the Duero originates. Upon reaching the border with Portugal, its name changes to the Duoro. Ironically, the type of wine produced in each country also changes.

The Duero region in Spain is where you can find Tempranillo grapes, known for their deeply colored wines. Port, a fortified wine from Portugal, is a worldwide favorite.

Portugal has very strict rules for classifying wine. Protection of the designation of origin (DOC) is part of the classification process. Douro possesses the highest wine classification in Portugal.

Visit to the Duoro

This journey centers on Portugal’s Douro River, from Peso da Regua to Pinhao. Arrival time is between the end of October and the first week of November. Enormous crowds at the late summer harvest have disappeared. Deep red and burnt orange, the colors of fall, are reaching their peak. For a visitor, the Duoro is accessible and stunning.

This portion of the Duoro River Valley has a steep landscape. Really steep. Stone terraces are prominent. They exist to better facilitate the wine growing and to protect against deadly pests. The terraces are powerful in appearance.

The Duoro River Near Pinhao

The Terraces on the Duoro

Peso da Regua and Pinhao look like picture postcards. Peso da Regua feels alive, full of locals drinking coffee while gossiping at cafes. Pinhao feels sleepy, ready to provide a day that is private and comfortable.

Peso da Regua Portugal

Pinhao Portugal

Pedestrian Bridge Crossing of the Duoro at Peso da Regua

The Duoro Looking East at Peso da Regua

The Duoro Looking West at Peso da Regua

You can travel this section of the river in several ways: car, bus, train, private boat, or tour boat. The journey and the towns are exceptionally enjoyable. Road N222 is also called the Douro Wine Route.

Vineyards

People know wineries as quintas in Portugal. There are about 80 registered vineyards between Peso da Regua and Pinhao. Most have tasting rooms. Many operate as hotels or bed-and-breakfast inns.

Most of the quintas are family-owned and operated. Some are closed to visitors during this time of year. The best and most flexible way to visit the vineyards and tasting rooms is to travel by car.

Duoro River near Quinta do Panascal Vineyard Portugal

In discussion with locals at the Museum do Duro, the consensus for most reliable and authentic wines and vineyards is:

Quinta do Tedo

Quinta do Vallado

Quinta do Seixo

Road Less Traveled

Route to Duoro

The A4 highway from Porto is probably the most popular route for tourists going to the Douro River Valley. It starts in a major tourist-heavy city, with travel on a major road. The trip takes about 1.5 hours one-way. Boat and train travel from Porto are also popular methods.

One choice is to begin elsewhere and use smaller roads for travel. This route might be less stressful, more scenic, and extend the trip by only 30 minutes.

The optional plan starts in Aveiro’s coastal towns (Barra and Costa Nova) on the A25. It heads towards the hills and mountains near Viseu.

West of Viseu, at Confulcos, is where secondary road travel begins. Navigation includes travel through hills, mountainsides, and the small towns of Vouzela, Sao Pedro du Sul, Cobertinha, and Castro Daire.

This segment of the Duoro River Valley journey is highly rewarding. There is little traffic; and the landscape is diverse and engaging. Sunny skies are prevalent. Occasionally, mist appears, disappears, and re-appears moving between hills, valleys and towns.

Portugal rarely sees snowfall. However, it’s clear that snowfall is common here because there are signs with snowflake and snowplow images on the roadside.

Castro Daire is the meeting point for another major highway (A24). The A24 heads north by northeast from Castro Daire. It reaches an elevation of 4,600 feet before dropping into the Duoro River Valley at Peso da Regua.

The Stripped Homes of Costa Nova

Misty Morning near Vouzela

The Highway Begins its Descent to Vouzela

Sao Pedro do Sol

Route to the Duoro Castro Daire in Color

Good Reads

Wine expert Randy Hamilton excellently explains the river and its differences from a wine perspective [here].

Capitalism was Portugal’s bet for the Douro’s future, made by a country that was socialist. Travel writer Rick Steves provides superb background and history of the Duoro, which is located [here].

* Jeff’s Thoughts and Other Worthless Trivia *

Exchanging Your Home

One of the most enjoyable aspects of travel for my wife and me is HomeExchange.

We use HomeExchange to exchange our home for another, such that we can travel and stay in a pleasant place without cost for the related stay.

There is an annual membership fee for HomeExchange. Members do not exchange any money in the house exchange. We have been members of HomeExchange since its start in the 1990s.

On our trip to Portugal, Linda and I stayed in Luz. Barra\Costa Nova, and CasCais. Each of the locations and homes was our first choice.

Camera Gear

Below, for the pixel peepers, is a listing of the camera gear I used. Each of the setups captured images displayed in the Post.

2 Nikon Z9 camera bodies.
NIKKOR Z 24-70MM 2.8 S II lens.
NIKKOR Z 70-200MM 2.8 S lens.
Nikon TC 2x teleconverter.
PHASEONE IQ4 150 digital back.
Schneider APO-DIGITAR 5.6 60MM Copal Shutter lens.
Cambo WRS5000 technical camera.

I receive no compensation for providing links or recommendations.

Capturing The Amazing Algarve

Portugal’s Algarve region is breathtaking. The variety in its terrain is surprising. It includes sunny white beaches, rocky coastlines, sea caves, steep cliffs, and a lush tree-covered countryside.

The Algarve is in southern Portugal, on the Atlantic. The coastline extends to the Spanish border. It stretches from Odeceixe in the northwest to Santo Antonio in the southeast.

The Algarve’s history has its roots in the Paleolithic and Neolithic periods. The Algarve has been home to many cultures and occupiers. It includes Portugal’s Dom, Algarve’s Kingdom, Portugal, Brazil, and the Algarves, First and Second Republic.

These cultures still have some influence here. However, tourism, migration, and vacation homes have greatly reduced the historical culture in the 21st century.

The Coast near Luz and Lagos.

The Algarve

Portugal

When and Where to Visit

Certain sections of the Algarve are urban and busy. The off-season population stands at 400,000. At its peak, the population swells to 1,200,000. The population in certain areas more than triples then. Ouch!

Rick Steve, a travel writing specialist, presents an honest account. Says Rick, “Choose your home base carefully. If you go to the places featured in travel blogs (the middle stretch, roughly between Faro and Lagos), you will find it much like Spain’s Costa del Sol: paved, packed, and pretty stressful.” A link to Rick Steves Portugal is located [here].

Linda and I prefer traveling during the shoulder season. The weather is likely to be pleasant, and the tourist population is small.

A Visit to Lagos

Swapping homes in Luz, near Lagos, from late October to early November, would be ideal for this trip. This spot is an excellent starting point for discovering the Algarve. Lagos has a complicated past. Today, there’s a lot going on in the city and nearby.

Lagos played a key role in world trade and exploration between 1400 and 1600 AD. People know the era as the Golden Age or Age of Discovery.

Through Prince Henry, Portugal rose, became dominant, and its language went global. The Lagos market saw the start of the African slave trade in 1444.

Earthquake and Tidal Wave

Starting November 1, 1755, Lagos would be different. A magnitude 9.0 earthquake, among history’s strongest, hit the area. It was located 50 miles offshore of the Algarve. The earthquake and tsunami destroyed cities from Lagos to Lisbon.

The tidal wave exceeded the height of Lagos’ city wall (image below). The earthquake and tsunami caused around 40,000 to 50,000 deaths. Portugal, as a result, would not regain its former power and influence.

Today

Lagos’ off-season population is roughly 31,000. The population of Lagos reaches about 130,000+ during the tourist season.

Tile is an important architectural element in Lagos. Narrow, clean, and bright alleys are typical of central Lagos.

To have fun, hike the Fisherman’s Trail in Lagos, followed by a boat tour. You can use multiple methods of water travel in Lagos.

The coastline west toward Luz has what seems like countless sea-caves.

Lagos The Walled City

The Center of the old city,

Tile is the theme in Lagos and Portugal.

Clean and bright narrow alleys in the center of Lagos are the norm.

Beaches accessible to the public dot the rugged coast line at Lagos

Waterfront walk in Lagos. Lagos is the end point of the 125 mile Fisherman’s trail. The Lagos stretch of the trail are filled with nicely paved walkways, condominiums, restaurants and trophy homes. The walk is enjoyable and striking.

The Bensafrim River acts as the riverfront for downtown Lagos and entry point to the Atlantic Ocean

Ponta da Piede La Lagos Portugal is one of many overlooks on the Fisherman’s trail in the city of Lagos

A fun thing to do is walk the Fisherman’s trail in Lagos, followed by a trip covering the same area but on the water. There are a multitude of options for travel on the water at Lagos.

The Algarve from an overlook in Lagos.

The Algarve from the water in Lagos.

There feels to be an endless number of sea-caves on the coast line when moving west towards Luz.

Approaching a sea-cave

Inside a sea-cave

Staying in Luz

Linda and I like city centers, but only when we can skip the car. Or we’ll try to find a nice place that gives us easy access to other places. Luz was the latter.

The beach town of Luz is near Lagos and is rather small. Luz’s offerings (beach, water, shops, food, stays) are available, but on a smaller, more personal level. All within walking distance of each other.

We did a HomeExchange with Jacquie. Her apartment faces the ocean in Luz. It was a great place to stay and exchange.

What makes it ideal for traveling the Algarve is that the Luz waterfront has superb access to primary and secondary roads. Taking secondary roads to Salema and Sagres is much more fun and interesting than via the main highways.

We enjoyed our trip to Salema, which took us from Luz through Mata Procas, Burgau, Barracão and Boca Do Rio. The route uncovered the routines of daily life. Travel time was only a few minutes longer than using the highways.

Jacquie’s place near the oceanfront in Luz Portugal

The overlook at Jacquie’s place in Luz Portugal

Church of Our Lady of Light on the waterfront in Luz Portugal.

Abandoned building near Boca Do Rio Portugal

Salema

Salema is a beach village towards the western end of the Algarve. It is a cherished spot for surfers and travelers hiking on the Fisherman’s Trail of Portugal. Salema is teeny-tiny. It feels almost shutdown in the off season. I can imagine surfers planning to live here forever.

The Beachfront

Salema’s beachfront is massive. It’s wide, big, and deep. On this day, few travelers are in Salema.

The Fisherman’s Trail.

The 25-mile section of the 125-mile Fisherman’s Trail between Salema and Sagres can be demanding. However, this section of the trail provides access to some of the world’s most scenic cliffs and beaches.

Salema Beach Portugal

Salema Village

The Fisherman’s Trail.

The 25 mile section of the 125 mile Fisherman’s trail between Salema and Sagres can be demanding. However, this section of the trail provides access to some of the world’s most scenic cliffs and beaches.

Looking east from the Fisherman’s trail directly above Salema Beach.

The view west from the Fisherman’s trail directly above Salema Beach.

Figueira Beach on the Fisherman’s trail west of Salema Village Portugal (looking west)

Figueira Beach on the Fisherman’s trail west of Salema Village Portugal (looking east)

Cape Sagres

Conventional thought prior to Columbus held the Earth was flat. Back then, people considered Cape Sagres in Portugal to be the closest land to the world’s edge. Even though it’s the 21st century and the world isn’t flat, Cape Sagres still feels like the edge of the world.

This journey includes Sagres village, Fort Sagres, Cape Sagres, and Cape St. Vincent.

It’s a remote, empty, parched, windy, and stony place. The area has massive cliffs. Waves from the Atlantic hammer both the cliffs and beaches.

Sagres and Prince Henry the Navigator.

Prince Henry the Navigator was the son of King Joao and Queen Phillipa of England. He let his brothers take the lead in the royal court and become kings. Prince Henry was brilliant and devoted to his religion. He was the head of the (wealthy and powerful) Order of Christ.

The Order of Christ comprised monks who were crusading soldiers based in the city of Tomar, Portugal (i.e., Knights Templar). Prince Henry the Navigator was the mastermind that ignited Portugal’s world leadership during the Age of Discovery. He was not a sailor, but an organizer, scholar, fundraiser and motivator.

The unprecedented and otherwise miraculous sea voyages were because of Henry’s vision and making. He convinced his sailor followers to enter and return from the Sea of Darkness only after discovering unknown places.

Prince Henry established a navigational school at Cape Sagres. After Henry’s death, the next generation of Portuguese would find and establish commercially successful routes to India, China, and circumnavigate the globe (a.k.a., The Golden Age). Ironically, the 1755 earthquake destroyed the school.

Windswept and barren the land of Fort at Cape Sagres Portugal

Cape Sagres Point Lighthouse (a.k.a The End of the World)

The Lighthouse at Cape St. Vincent, the actual southernmost point in Europe

The cliffs at Cape Sagres

The beach at Cape Sagres

* Jeff’s Thoughts and Other Worthless Trivia **

The People of Portugal

Portugal and its people are inviting and accommodating to visitors. Someone asked us why Americans are moving to Portugal. I’ve seen these kinds of headlines lately, but I don’t know if they’re true, or why. Evidence suggests more Americans are emigrating to Portugal. An interesting and related story is located [here].

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