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Trying Out The New Rig – Revisiting The 2012 Halstead Fire

 The Cherokee moves to the history books and the Raptor enters the scene.

My 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland has been retired as my Rig for Backcountry Photo-shoots. It served me exceedingly well for over 7 years.

I took possession of the Jeep at the end of June 2012.  After months of intense research and test drives the Jeep was deemed to be the very best at meeting my need to travel almost anywhere (i.e., local, highway, forest service roads, off trail routes).

The Jeep as outfitted allowed me to travel with all the creature comforts I desired and also get me to the top of places such as Minebender with plenty of vehicle remaining.  Many of my photo-shoots relied entirely on the Jeep getting to a crucial spot in the remote backcountry.

Sitting at Galena Summit in 2013, The Jeep awaits our return (Kyle & Jeff) from summiting four peaks. It is in one big day; Lower Titus, Upper Titus, Bromaghin and Saviers – the tallest in the Smoky Mountain Range.  In the distance is Ryan Peak, the tallest in the Boulder Mountain Range which we summited weeks earlier.

About 40 days into ownership of the Jeep,  the Halstead Fire of Idaho began on August 6, 2012.  The Halstead would become a large monster – burning up 179,000 + acres in the Sawooth and Salmon-Challis National forest.  A great deal of the timber that would succumb to the fire was virgin forest. 

A good deal of what remains as virgin forest in the Continental United States is located in Idaho. 

The fire started as a result of a lightning strike; so nature rules.

Following the same kind of natural selection or evolution process,  the Jeep needed to make way for a new Rig.

Unfortunately, Fiat Chrysler decided the 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland would no longer make available the creature comforts of its 2012 predecessor. So the Jeep was taken off the list of possible replacements.

So what is my selection criteria?  Go anywhere in practically any condition with all the right gadgets, have good creature comforts such as a top notch sound system, drive nicely on the highway, accommodate the dogs, accomodate my gear, tow a 23 foot boat and not break the bank. Yes… in short, have my cake and eat it too.

The final candidates using the selection criteria were the 2019 Mercedes G-Wagon, the 2019/20 Range Rover Sport HSE/SVR and the 2019 Ford Raptor.

Oh, yes, the Rolls Royce SUV is turning out to be everything promised.  However, the last time I looked I was a smidge short of the $325,000 needed for purchase.  Plus British edicate requires purchasing the services of a full-time driver.

The G-Wagon with its military linage is accompanied with every possible feature and function anyone would want.  In 2019 Mercedes re-built the G-Wagon from the ground up.  Different than its predecessors the 2019 G-Wagon drives as wonderfully on the road as off.

The Range Rover is a superb vehicle and was leading the race late in the selection process. The Land Rover dealer Lyle Pearson in Boise is well known to us for other cars we own and have owned.  They are a great dealership. The demand for the Ranger Rover is high.

One small problem for Jeff… no dealers in the United States (I mean none) outfit the Range Rover Sport HSE/SVR to its full backcountry potential. Land Rover is known for its foo-foo features.  I wanted less of those but everything needed to get me anywhere.  So while Land Rover sells the concept of its unequaled ruggedness and comfort it appears no dealers or Americans actually want or use them.  So in order to get what I wanted I would need to order the vehicle.  Despite the best efforts of Lyle Pearson, delivery time ETA was 4-5 months.

The situation for the Ford Raptor was even more dire.  For most of 2019 demand exceeded supply. No Raptors were available in the region – none.

Luckily I had purchased an 8 year 100,000 mile bumper-to-bumper repair coverage plan for the Jeep, so I could be patient.

During the search process, the Jeep while awesome, was starting to show a need for servicing.  Also, the local Jeep dealership had left the area. So, I was now being forced to take trips to Twin Falls (71 miles away).  The dealership in Twin Falls (Lithia) was nice and accommodating but the travel time and (free) rental car hassle was beginning to prove problematic.

While having a cup of coffee in Twin Falls waiting for The Jeep to be serviced, and coming to the conclusion I would buy a Range Rover and wait five months for delivery, I decided to look and see if any Raptors were available in the region.

Ironically our local dealership (Silver Creek Ford) that is allocated 1 or 2 Raptors a year (at least that is what they told me in April) has one on the lot.  It had arrived the day before.  Even stranger, the vehicle was outfitted exactly as I desired (down to the color).  In short, this Raptor had all the goods but without three features – none of which I wanted. The features were two graphics packages (i.e, RAPTOR) that scream-out on the vehicle and some type of Carbon-fiber coffee holder and steering wheel trim.

Another advantage coming into play is I know and like the people at Silver Creek Ford and the purchase is local.  The dealership even let us (Kyle and I) drive to Galena Summit and on the Boulder Creek jeep trail as the final test drive.

A deal is made.

As for the Raptors first big test, I decide to venture back into where the Halstead Fire completed a Hard-Burn seven year previous.

As a brief backgrounder, wildfires in the Western U.S. recently have burned at an unprecedented rate since accurate and verifiable records have been maintained.  Fires in 1910’s, 1930’s and late 1950’s were substantial but no reasonable comparison from a statistical perspective can be made.  There was a material drop in wildfires from the 1960’s up to the late 1990’s.  The increase since 2000 is material.

This post is not about climate change or a lack there-of and the reasoning behind the positions held by various parties advocating one position or the other.  However, the numbers are what they are regardless as to the why.

Wildfires in the United States 2000-2018

 

Wildfires in the Northwestern U.S. 2000-2018

Wildfires in the Northwestern U.S. 2000-2018

 

Fires in Jeff’s Backyard 2000-2018

 

The Halstead Fire 2012 (Blue in center area).

So… while recording a full afternoon of college football, I and the Raptor head out from our cabin in Stanley and travel along the Salmon River to the east.

As most of you know my love and interest in this region is great.  Driving along the Salmon (i.e., River of No Return) east from Stanley to Challis is as ruggedly beautiful as it gets. Each and every time I travel this 60 mile section I marvel at the beauty I am afforded. Its equal is the 61 mile section of the Sawtooth Valley south between Stanley and Sun Valley – for completely different reasons.  I pinch myself – as to my good fortune – each and every time I make these drives.  I never ever take their beauty for granted.

The Trip

I will test the Raptor by attempting to travel the entire 17+ mile length of Forest Service Road 183 counter clockwise.  I will start at Highway 75 and Basin Creek and [sic., hopefully] end at Highway 75 and Lower Harden Creek.

FS Road 183 is demanding for any vehicle. I have been told that travelling the entire length of this road has been impossible for traditional off road passenger type vehicles – including four-wheel drive trucks – since the fire. Some people who have been up to the area in ATV’s say it might now be possible.

I decide to go for it.  I pack the truck with all essentials in case I run into a real problem.  I call Linda and let her know when I am leaving and where I am going.

The starting point is a few miles after Mormon Bend and a string of Hot Springs that can be enjoyed right along the river on Highway 75.

I turn left from Highway 75 onto Basin Creek.  The signs hit me immediately.  This is a Mountainous Burn Area with Hazards, Steep Road with Limited Turnouts Ahead, Passenger Vehicles Not Advised. Ford, says it has built, and stands behind the vehicle dealing the issues the signs suggest.  

What that means to me is the Raptor is equipped with a 10 Speed automatic\manual transmission six cylinder high turbo engine that produces 480 HP and 520 ft. lbs. of torque. It also means to me the protective under carriage pans, 2W, 4WH, 4WH with locking differential. 4WL, 4WL with locking differential, Hill Descent support, a variety of adjustment levels for the specially designed shock absorbers, the ability to drive through almost 3 feet of water and provide almost 10 inches of clearance for rocks and logs better work.  Why?  This route will likely put everything into play.

It should be noted that my loving son\business partner\associate Kyle thinks I would benefit from learning and testing as many aspects of the Raptor before any big outing.  Quietly and in low key fashion I have read all manuals and tested as many features as possible at least a couple of times for the past few weeks.  I have become comfortable moving between 2H and 4WL with Locking differential in 10 speed Manual mode.

The biggest challenge during the test period is passing an old under-powered Recreational Vehicle Motor Home with Wisconsin license plates, with a barking Paris Hilton type lap dog in the back window, pulling a 2nd vehicle that is towing a motor boat – without deliberately driving them off the road.  The Raptor performed beautifully, I was at risk.

After about a mile of somewhat tricky travel, I turn right onto Coal Creek Road.  Road is a loose term in Idaho, and clearly is not applicable with the terrain before me.  Luckily, I knew this condition (to a great degree) ahead of time.  The next 4-6 miles are best described as a sketchy Jeep Trail, and a very steep one at that.  Most of the 2000+ feet of vertical gain on the trip are accomplished in this section.  The effects of the Halstead fire are apparent immediately.

The area around me reflects the result of a nasty torching followed by seven years of ground cover regrowth.  The roadbed, if you want to call it that, is punishing.  Luckily I have travelled this type of terrain in similar conditions.  The Raptor is responding to my changes quickly and smoothly.

I encounter a variety of highly sloped narrow spots, and given the steep uphill angle, I deal with them somewhat blindly.  It should be noted, I did not need to do so. Why? I forget the Raptor has a remarkable 360 degree camera the I use most days in the driveway at home to avoid hitting the dogs.

As a result of Kyle’s suggestions, I am travelling matterially slower than I would normally.  It is a good thing, as while moving in 4WL with differential at 3MPH over some logs and big boulders a couple of motorized mountain bikes come flying around a corner (downhill) directly towards me.  But for the grace of God, (or spiritual unit of your choice) both bikes avoid me by the slightest of margins.  I am surprised neither hit me.

The bikers stop and look back to me offering hand signals this condition was their bad and others are coming.  Two others follow soon thereafter, but it is on somewhat flat terrain where all parties are in clear view.

In what will prove to be the trickiest and steepest section of the trip, I encounter two guys on ATV’s fully loaded with chain saws and other cutting and clearing equipment.  One guy moves on but the other stays to chat.

I ask the guy as to what he is doing and the condition of the road. He responds “We are contractor’s attempting to clear the road. As for you, it will be pretty demanding from this point, but my question is how in God’s name did you make it this far.  The worst spots are what you came through and we barely made it ourselves.”

Impressively the guy asks me politely if I have ropes, chains, and other equipment to deal with pulling logs or extracting myself from muddy conditions.  I answer yes to all with confidence and legitimacy. The guy concludes “then you should be good to go.”  With that I move on.

The Sawtooths from the high point of FS Road 183.

The travel for the remainder of the route was exciting.  The roadbed while challenging and remarkable at a high elevation was well within the realm of what I have experienced and the Raptor could handle.

I should point out that what the US Forest Service has to tackle and accomplish as part of a Burn Area Environmental Recovery (BAER) project can be astonishing if seen first hand by a laymen or person who knows little to nothing of such an effort. The results of the BAER effort in this area is remarkable.

Test Personel

Celebrating Greenhorn

The paint is in the Paintbrush ©Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

Greenhorn Gulch is a remarkable place.  It is the recreational playground of the Wood River Valley for locals.  Walking, hiking, running, mountain biking and horse riding is conducted virtually every day by people of all skills.  The exceptional variety of terrain and level of difficulty offered by Greenhorn is like few other spots.

From its Trail-head Greenhorn offers a spoke wheel with connector of tail and trail-less opportunities involving up to 34 miles and 6,200 vertical feet of travel.  With creeks in each basin water for your four-legged friend is not an issue. Areas of heavy timber, aspens, native grass, and sage brush intertwine to offer protection from or exposure to the sun.

This past week I decided to cover the 8 mile loop of Greenhorn – Lodgepole – Cow Creek Connector and Cow Creek.

Linda, Sage of the Wood River Valley (dog), Willow of the Wood River Valley (dog) and I completed the route in the early morning – starting just after sunrise.

A few days later Sage of the Wood river Valley (dog), Willow of the Wood River Valley (dog) and I completed the rout in the late afternoon.

Heading back home as the sun ends its day. © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.


Greenhorn – Lodgepole – Cow Creek Connector – Cow Creek Loop.  8 miles 1,434 vertical feet total.


Purple and Gold.

Mahoney Butte from the Cow Creek Connector Trail


The Golden Sphere.


Paintbrush with Sage Brush (dog) Willow (dog) assisting.


Larks Croft Sage of the Wood River Valley (top) and Larks Croft Willow of the Wood River Valley.

On A Perch – All by Choice

The subject of interest stands on a small perch below the 11,240 ft. summit of Gardens Peak in the Rocky Mountains of Idaho. We are in similar positions and elevation. However the subject of interest and I are separated by 1/2 mile and a deep canyon. 

The subject of interest is alone. I am not.  World re-known guide Nappy Neaman, Adventurist Crist Cook, and I are on our 11th day of photographing Mountain Goats. My subject is a male yearling.

We are located only 15 miles from the towns of Ketchum and Sun Valley. However, no trails can be utilized to reach these perches.  Our day starts at 4AM, and involves climbing for about two hours with 30-45 lbs (each) on our backs in order to reach our first shooting location. We will scramble up, down, and throughout areas named The Rock Garden, and The Secret Garden for another six hours before calling it a day.

We love this setting and like to claim we are sitting in our backyard.  For the Mountain Goat this spot is their natural home at its southernmost point.  The Mountain Goat’s native habitat are the Rocky and Cascade Mountains of North America – from Southeast Alaska to Central Idaho. 

Mountain Goats are actually not goats. All goats wild and domestic, are part of the genus; Capra. Mountain Goats are the only (remaining) living species in the genus; Oreamnos.  Mountain Goats are closely aligned with Gazelle and Antelope.  All are members of the Bovidae family.

Looks Intriguing – © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC- all rights reserved.

Mountain Goats are isolationists. They do not lend themselves to domestication in any form.  Mountain Goats also tend to live in the higher and more rugged elevations of their habitat.

For those that live in or visit the Wood River Valley of Idaho, the Mountain Goat resides only a few miles from the center of town in any direction. The community has established many viewing points that offer the ability to see Mountain Goats from a distance with a spotting scope. However, a viewing up close without disturbing the Mountain Goat is an entirely different proposition.

Getting up close enough to capture high quality images involves dealing with a variety of challenges. Some combination of cross-country travel, rock scrambling, climbing, and the ability to carry up to 50 pounds of photographic gear is part of the mix.

To capture the image requires patience, an understanding of the daily habits of a Mountain Goat, the ability to photograph a fast-moving subject, and the the proper use of the light of day and its angle. 

Lounging Late in the Day – © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

Mountain Goats are the largest Mammal in their habitat weighing anywhere from 100 – 300 lbs. All Mountain Goats have beards, short tails and long horns.  The horns reveal growth rings as they remain on the goat for its entire life.  Mountain Goats have padded four-toed hoofs with an additional sharp dew claw.  The hoof, and dew claw combined with a powerful shoulder and neck allows the Mountain Goat to move nimbly through rocky terrain up to 60 degrees in angle.

Here is Looking [Back] At You. © Copyright Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

The Mountain Goat has a two-layered coat; a thick undercoat and a light fluffy overcoat.  This kind of coat allows the Mountain Goat to survive direct exposure to -50 degree (f) temperatures and 100 M.P.H. winds.

In order to remain cool in the summer months, the Mountain Goat removes their coat by scraping it against rock.  The coat regrows in time for cold weather.

Excuse Me… We Are Having A Private Family Conversation Here. © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

The female Mountain Goat gives birth to and raises offspring almost entirely on her own. Male Mountain Goats live mostly on their own. In the Wood River Valley birthing occurs most commonly from the last week of May through the first week of June.

It is during the first weeks of life the Mountain Goat is its most vulnerable.  Its primary predator – the Golden Eagle – view Baby Mountain Goats as a food source, to be identified, picked up, dropped to their death, and consumed.

After a few days Baby Mountain Goats begin travel with Mom.  It survives on Breast Milk and eventually learns to eat the mulch and lick the mineral salt that is their daily diet.

Hmm… © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

Baby Mountain Goats stay with Mom for their first few years.  The moment a Baby Mountain Goat becomes an older sibling at one-year (a.k.a. Yearling) it becomes a possible deadly relative that Mom will keep at a safe distance.  Why?  The Yearling has horns and the baby’s skull is not fully formed.  For a while the Yearling is the problem child scolded by Mom, but not driven away.

It is not uncommon to see Mom, Baby, Yearling and Two Year-old sitting, traveling, and bedding down together.

Surveying The Domain © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

The Yearling can often be observed out-front viewing the territory ahead, while in close proximity to Mom and Baby.

Everyone Below… You Should See What I am Seeing. © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

Viewing a two week-old Baby Mountain Goat following Mom through the steep and rocky terrain is an amazing sight to behold.

Lift-off © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

Airborne © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

Sticking the Landing © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

Movin’ On © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

The Mountain Goat is constantly on the lookout for minerals as part of their daily diet.  Mountain Goats will go to great lengths to get a taste of the minerals.  In the image below, mom and baby are scratching and licking the wall to expose and lick minerals in the rock.

This is a Certified 100% Organic Salt Lick.

While the terrain in which I travel and photograph could easily be classified as harsh and demanding, I would describe it as magnificent.

In Search of Fruit in the Garden. © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

 

Sun Sets in the Black Rocks. © Jeffrey H. Lubeck – MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

Some of the places from which I photograph and successfully capture images are on established trails.  While not necessarily the most heavily travelled, the trails are well known and covered by people who like to hike.  The Mountain Goats are present and visible to the naked eye if you are looking up and around.  Some of these spots are literally a few feet from the trailhead.  While there are no closeup’s to be had, if you have binoculars, a spotting scope, or a 1000 MM lens attached to your camera you can look into the Mountain Goat’s eyes.

Some of the places from which I photograph and successfully capture images are not on established trails. They can be reached if you are competent in off-trail back-country travel at high elevation.  If you can  move with competence through terrain at 25-40 degrees in angle for 2,000 to 3,000 vertical feet of gain at high elevation you can encounter Mountain Goats from 5 feet to 1/2 mile away.  Also, you can observe them for longer periods of time if you are exceptionally quiet in movement and communicate with others with hand signals and or muted sound effects.

Some of the places from which I photograph and successfully capture images occurs in highly challenging terrain.  These spots are not to be attempted alone – at least in my opinion.

For the past number of years, I have had the fortune to work with arguably the best Mountain Goat guide and enthusiastic Adventurist in the world. It should be noted that many – in the town in which I live – can truly lay claim to be the best in the world in their respective discipline. These two were my friends prior to attempting this endeavor and as luck would have it they remain so to this day.

After a few years of operating as a photographic shoot team we have become good.  My thinking is we could eventually become superb.